Decorative cosmetics

Decorative cosmetics items
Cosmetics

(from ancient Greek κοσμητική - “the art of decorating, dressing up”, further from κοσμητικός, κοσμέω) - the doctrine of means and methods of improving a person’s appearance.
Cosmetics are also called products and methods for caring for the skin, hair and nails, as well as the oral cavity, used to improve a person’s appearance, as well as substances used to give freshness and beauty to the face and body[1]. Cosmetology
is a branch of medicine that develops means and measures to improve a person’s appearance (his facial and body skin) by masking or eliminating skin defects, using plastic surgery, etc.

Cosmetics are divided into two main groups: hygiene (soap, lotion) and decorative cosmetics (lipstick, mascara).

The word "cosmetics" was first used in 1867, during the International Exhibition in Paris, where the perfumery and soap industries exhibited their products separately from pharmaceuticals[2]. Soon the symbiosis of perfumery and soap making turned into a separate industry, which we now call the perfumery and cosmetics industry.

Each country has its own list of cosmetics, fixed by law. So, in some countries soap is not classified as cosmetics. The Food and Drug Administration defines cosmetics as essentially anything that can be “rubbed, poured, scattered or sprayed, injected, or otherwise applied to the human body... to cleanse, beautify, enhance attractiveness, or alter appearance.”

[3]. In Russia, the list of cosmetics includes essential oils, the main tools of aromatherapy.

The authoritative organization that classifies cosmetic products is CIDESCO - the international committee for cosmetology and aesthetics. It is this classification that is considered generally accepted and divides cosmetic products into a segment: the mass market

), the market for middle category goods (
middle market
), luxury, professional and cosmeceuticals[4].

In the modern world, there is a trend towards convergence between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. A new type of cosmetics is emerging, which is a mixture of cosmetics and drugs. This direction is called " cosmeceuticals"

" However, many countries, and, in particular, the United States, consider this direction in the development of cosmetics to be dangerous to human health, and require that manufacturers clearly separate drugs and cosmetics.

Content

• 1 History of decorative cosmetics
• 2 Cosmetics in Russia
• 3 Basic cosmetic products and accessories
• 4 Cosmetics for facial skin care
• 5 Composition of cosmetics
• 6 International nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients
• 7 Safety requirements
• 8 Dangerous and useless ingredients in cosmetics 8.1 Endocrinological side effects
• 8.2 Dioxane (1,4-dioxane)
• 8.3 Nitrosamines
• 8.4 Coenzyme Q10 and vitamin C

History of decorative cosmetics[ | ]

See also: Cosmetics in Ancient Rome

Toulouse-Lautrec. Woman Having a Facial (1889)

In Ancient Egypt, eyeliner among the pharaohs had nothing to do with cosmetics, but was a necessary attribute of protection from evil spirits. By lining the eyes, the Egyptians drove away spirits, which they believed tended to penetrate the human soul through the eyes. The oil fragrant cones that the Egyptians wore on their heads also had nothing to do with cosmetics: living in a humid and hot climate, they protected themselves from the rays of the sun and insects in this way. The ancient Egyptians used aromatic oils and ointments to cleanse and soften their skin, protect it from sun and wind, and even mask body odors[5].

The inhabitants of Ancient Rome were well versed in the art of makeup. They extensively used kohl (charcoal) as eyelid dye, fucus (focus), mostly red in color, for cheeks and lips, wax as a hair remover, barley flour and oil for removing pimples, and pumice - for teeth whitening. They also dyed their hair black or blond depending on fashion trends.

Cosmetics in the modern sense, as a means of improving appearance, appeared about one and a half thousand years ago: the ancient Greeks revived the ancient Egyptian traditions of painting the face, but no longer as something vital, but solely for aesthetic purposes. By the 4th century. BC e. The Greeks removed their body hair, filled their eyebrows, applied white foundation to their faces, painted their lips, brushed their teeth, chewed gum and dyed their hair golden. When examining Minoan frescoes, vessels, and decorative items, one can understand that women of that era widely used cosmetics: using red paint for the lips, white for the face, black for the eyes. They also used special tweezers to pluck thick eyebrows[6]. Following them, other peoples began decorating the appearance. Now we call this process “make-up” or “applying decorative cosmetics”[7].

In Europe during the medieval period, it was fashionable to have pale faces. Rich people, who did not need to work outdoors and expose their faces to a tan, emphasized their well-being by having a pale complexion. Spanish prostitutes, on the contrary, painted their faces pink, thereby emphasizing their difference from the pale-faced women of high society. In the 13th century, royal women wore pink lipstick to demonstrate their affiliation with the highest authority.

During the Italian Renaissance, it was fashionable for women to paint their faces with lead white. Lead is harmful to human health, but unlike arsenic powder, it was not used as a poisonous substance. At that time, a powder called “Aqua Toffana”, named after its creator, Signora Toffana, was widely known in Italy. This powder was intended only for women from wealthy families. The container containing the powder contained an invitation to the client to visit Signora Toffana for instructions on how to use the powder. During the woman's visit, Signora Toffana explained to her that she should only powder her cheeks when her husband is nearby. As a result, with the assistance of Signora Toffana, six hundred husbands went to another world[8].

In Elizabethan England, cosmetics were considered unhealthy because it was believed that they did not allow moisture to evaporate naturally and interfere with the normal output of energy. During the French Restoration of the 18th century, red blush and lipstick symbolized passion, fury, and their owners were considered healthy, cheerful people. This was the case in France, but many people in other countries had a negative attitude towards excessive use of cosmetics. Opinions have often been expressed that French people wearing makeup are disgusting because they have something to hide.

In the 19th century, decorative cosmetics gradually began to enter everyday use; these were already products of natural tones, with the help of which faces were given a healthy ruddy color. But even then, excessive use of cosmetics was perceived negatively and was considered sinful.

The Victorian pale face remained in fashion until the 1920s, until the mass production and widespread trade of cosmetics began. In the 1960s, there was a turn in the decorative design of the face: instead of white lips and Egyptian eyes, fantastic images came into fashion, for example, a butterfly painted on the face. Such “decoration” was honored during country walks of high society. Until the late 1970s and early 1980s, looks with pronounced eyeliner in a variety of colors and shades remained in fashion.[9] but not only that.

Cosmetics in Russia[ | ]

Women of Ancient Rus' paid great attention to skin care and applying decorative cosmetics. The only difference from Western women was that they attached magical meaning to each color. Some colors were considered to attract love and good luck, while others, on the contrary, could bring misfortune.

Raspberry, cherry and beet juice were used as blush and lipstick. Eyes and eyebrows were lined with soot. The face was bleached with wheat flour. Onion peels were used to dye hair golden. To become blonde, they used a mixture of saffron and chamomile. Russian women took great care of their facial skin. They used milk, sour cream, honey, egg yolk, animal fat, as well as cucumbers, cabbage, carrots, and beets. Cucumber juice or parsley decoction was used to whiten and get rid of freckles. Cornflower infusion was used for oily, porous skin. Plantain, nettle, coltsfoot, burdock roots were used to treat dandruff and against hair loss.

Skin care recipes have been carefully described. Thus, in the 12th century, the granddaughter of Monomakh Zoe (Eupraxia) wrote the book “Ointments”; the Treatise of Eupraxia-Zoe is kept in the library of Lorenzo de’ Medici in Florence. The microfilm received in 1955 by Professor B. D. Petrov was translated and is located in the Russian State Library, where information was collected not only on the treatment of various diseases, but also tips on hair care, body care, remedies for bad breath and for brushing teeth. In the well-known at that time supplement to the magazine “Moskovskie Vedomosti” (published since 1756), “Economic Store”, published in Russia since 1780, various recommendations on appearance care and the use of herbal cosmetics were constantly published [10].

The industrial production of cosmetics in Russia began with the factory of Alphonse Ralet, founded in 1843 in Moscow. She produced powder, Tridas soap, lipstick and perfume. In 1846, Rala was allowed to print the Russian coat of arms on its products. The stores of his trading house were located in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Kharkov, and Odessa. After the Bolsheviks came to power, the Rale factory was renamed the Svoboda perfume and cosmetics factory.

In 1864, the soap laboratory of Heinrich Brocard was founded in Moscow. Things went well, and soon the factory began producing perfumes and lipsticks. Brocard was elevated to the rank of supplier to the Imperial Majesty's court. In 1878, Brocard was awarded a bronze medal at the World Exhibition in Paris, and later, in 1889, received the Grand Gold Medal. After the revolution, the factory was nationalized, and it continued to operate under the new name “New Dawn”.

In 1885, A. M. Ostroumov invented anti-dandruff soap, which immediately gained great popularity. The soap was followed by the Metamorphosis cream. After the revolution, the Ostroumov factory was merged with the Bodlot factory and received the name “Rassvet”.

Basic cosmetic products and accessories[ | ]

For the face
For the face, foundation, BB/CC cream, and powder are used; they even out the tone of the face and partially hide any imperfections. Before applying foundation, use a makeup base if necessary. It is needed to even out the relief, increase the durability of makeup, and correct color imperfections of the skin. Concealer and correctors are used to precisely hide imperfections. For visual modeling of facial sculpture, there is a sculptor, bronzer, and highlighter. Using them, for example, you can make your cheekbones more visible or visually change the shape or size of your nose.

For eyes

For eye makeup, there are shadows, cream shadows, tints; they allow you to visually correct the shape of the eye, hide drooping eyelids, and are also simply used to brighten the image as a whole. Pencil and eyeliner are needed mainly for drawing arrows; they are also used to visually emphasize the eyelash line and shade the color of the iris. Mascara makes eyelashes longer, more voluminous, more expressive, and you can also use false eyelashes for all this.

For lips

There are lipsticks and glosses for lips. Special lip pencils are also used to adjust the shape of the lips and thicken the color and add durability to the product applied on top.

For eyebrows

For eyebrows, special pencils, lipsticks, and gels are used.

Brushes

Most often, cosmetic products are applied with brushes. There are many types of brushes depending on what products they are intended for. In addition to using brushes, you can also apply products with sponges, beauty blenders, and directly with your hands or fingers.

Cosmetics for facial skin care[ | ]

Such cosmetics are divided into types, in accordance with the stage of skin care for which they are intended. The following types of care cosmetics are distinguished: cleansing, toning, moisturizing, nourishing and protecting the skin. Cosmetic products can also be divided depending on the skin type for which they are suitable: normal, dry, combination, oily, problematic.

Cosmetics in Ancient Egypt

Cosmetics were used in Ancient Egypt and Mesopotamian countries. So, in Mesopotamia, lipstick was already known 5000 years ago. Ancient Egyptians also painted their lips. In Ancient Egypt, a mixture based on animal fat with the addition of beeswax and red pigment, or red clay, was used as lipstick. Lipstick in Ancient Egypt most often had dark shades. In addition to lipstick, Egyptians also used eye shadow, eyeliner, and painted their nails and hair.

In Ancient Egypt, both men and women wore eyeliner, and not at all for the purpose of beautifying themselves. In those days, it was believed that eyeliner protected the eyes from evil spirits entering the human soul through them. For eyeliner, the Egyptians used paints made from antimony (kohl - still used as eyeliner in Muslim countries, this is a black stone crushed into powder and usually diluted with castor oil) and soot.

The eyelids were painted with grated malachite, a mixture of green copper and lead sulphide ore. By the way, lead also repelled insects. Blush in Ancient Egypt was made from raw materials of plants and shrubs.

The Egyptians wore fragrant oil cones on their heads, the wearing of which was already associated with practical needs - they protected from insects, of which there were many in the hot climate of Ancient Egypt.

The Egyptians painted their nails with henna, which is preserved in references to the most famous Egyptian queen Cleopatra. By the way, Cleopatra was very fond of cosmetics and even wrote a whole treatise on cosmetics called “Medicines for the Skin.”

The first written information about cosmetics is also associated with Ancient Egypt - the Ebert papyrus is the first written document that contains advice on the use of cosmetics.

Composition of cosmetics[ | ]

Cosmetics consist of various ingredients that perform specific functions. The same ingredient can have several properties. All ingredients are divided into groups:

• Abrasive substances are materials of increased hardness, used in a massive or crushed state for mechanical processing of other materials. Natural abrasive substances - flint, emery, pumice, corundum, granite, diamond, etc.
• Absorbers (absorbents)
• Anti-dandruff substances
• Antimicrobial agents
• Antioxidants are natural or synthetic substances that slow down or prevent the oxidation of organic compounds. They are used both to protect the cosmetic product itself from oxidation and to protect the skin from free radicals, which are one of the causes of skin aging.
• Antistatic agents are substances that reduce static electricity and are used in shampoos and hair conditioners.
• Binders are substances intended for gluing grains of quartz sand and other fillers of the core mixture or molding sand.
• Biological additives are compositions of biologically active substances.
• Whitening agents - help fight skin pigmentation.
• Herbal ingredients - this includes plant extracts, oils and other ingredients that benefit the skin.
• Buffer substance
• Chelating agents are substances due to which additional non-covalent bonds arise in those structures in which a hydrogen (or metal) atom connected by a covalent bond is oriented between two electron-donating fragments of the same molecule, providing this hydrogen (or metal) atom with additional electronic cloud.
• Dyes
• Denaturants are mixtures of ethyl alcohol (base) with a small amount of methanol and kerosene or other denatured alcohols, depending on the legislation of the country. Denatured alcohol or denatured alcohol is intended for various technical and medical purposes, but not for the production of any alcoholic beverages. Denaturants can also be called industrial alcohols, since these alcohols are used EXCLUSIVELY for technical or industrial purposes.
• Hair removal agents
• Emollients are substances that soften skin and hair.
• Emulsifiers are emulsion stabilizers that help create a uniform consistency of creams.
• Film-forming
• Foaming
• Flavorings (fragrances) - may cause allergies.
• Moisture-retaining substances help moisturize the skin.
• Contrasts
• Oxidizing agents
• Pigments
• Preservatives
• Various gases
• Skin regenerating ingredients contribute to its restoration.
• Solvents
• Surfactants or surfactants are used in cleansers and shampoos.
• UV filters - protect the skin and product from solar radiation.
• Viscosity regulators - makes the product thicker or, conversely, liquid with a fluid texture.

When formulating a cosmetic, many aspects are taken into account: it must attract customers with its aroma and consistency, be convenient and easy to use, and most importantly, fulfill its main purpose - improve appearance, give freshness and beauty to the face, body, hair, nails, etc. In order to comply with all the requirements, many substances are added to the formulation that are not related to its main purpose - caring for appearance. The inclusion of additional substances in cosmetics is due solely to marketing considerations [ source not specified 3383 days

]. These include anti-corrosion substances, antistatic agents, binders, contrasters, and viscosity-regulating substances. The addition of emulsifiers, for example, is due to the need to mix substances that do not mix in nature - fats, oils and water, otherwise the cosmetics will not have a marketable appearance, will spread and separate.

The main purpose of preservatives in cosmetics is to prevent the growth of harmful microorganisms that can lead to various diseases, and also to ensure that cosmetics retain their presentation for as long as possible: they do not separate, do not lose consistency, and do not change color or smell. If a cosmetic contains water and fat, two preservatives are usually added to such cosmetics - to protect the water part and to protect the fatty part of the cosmetic.[8] Mainly used as preservatives [ source not specified 3383 days

] so-called "parabens".

Research on the safety of cosmetic ingredients can be found in the CIR[11] and the Environmental Working Group, where links to ingredient studies are provided.

What does history tell us?

Since the Stone Age, people have decorated their bodies with tattoos and makeup made from natural dyes. In Ancient Egypt, lips, eyes, hair and nails were painted. The lipstick was a mixture of beeswax and animal fat, with the addition of red ocher. Instead of shadows - lead, oxides, grated malachite.

Kohl (kayal) was very popular - created from a mixture of various minerals. It was jet black in color and was used as eyeliner. Gradually, the fashion for tinting the face migrated to Ancient Greece, from there to Rome and China. There, too, new technologies for the production of cosmetic products and progressive techniques for applying makeup began to appear.

For thousands of years, all the natural products that nature could give us were used to create cosmetics:

• ground colorful minerals,
• all variety of clays (white, red, green, black);
• soot,
• plant juices and extracts;
• plant powders.

Moving away from the origins of creating cosmetics, in the modern world, in pursuit of durability and longevity, cosmetics manufacturers have come to the point of adding various petrochemical products to the composition of cosmetics. Silicones and esters subsequently became frequent participants in decorative products, which negatively affected the skin and spoiled its appearance, depriving the fair sex of good health.

International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients[ | ]

The rapid development of the cosmetics industry required streamlining the work with the ingredients that make up cosmetics. This was undertaken by an organization founded in 1894 - The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (now The Personal Care Products Council). CTFA is the author of the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. The first CTFA dictionary of ingredients was released in 1973. It included only 5 thousand ingredients. Each was assigned a number according to the Chemical Abstract Service Registry (CAS). In 1994, the fifth edition of the dictionary was released, which was called the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and contained 6,000 ingredients. In 2006, the 11th edition was released, but already under the name of the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI), which contained more than 13 thousand ingredients (in 12 years the number of ingredients has more than doubled).

In 2010, the 13th edition of the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook was released, which already includes 17.5 thousand ingredients.

In Russia there is no single dictionary of cosmetic ingredients. However, the legislation mentions INCI and gives the following recommendations: “At the discretion of the manufacturer, it is permissible to indicate the list of ingredients in accordance with the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) using a Latin graphic basis.”[12]

Dangerous and useless ingredients in cosmetics[ | ]

Harmful ingredients and impurities in cosmetics are much more common than we would like, and some of them pose a real threat to health. Notorious ones include: 1,4-dioxane, nitrosamines, and chemicals that affect the endocrine and hormonal systems.

Endocrinological side effects[ | ]

In modern industrial society, a large number of chemical compounds are released into the environment, which have a negative impact on human health, and, in particular, on the endocrine system and the hormonal background of the body as a whole. These substances are called xenoestrogens[en]. They get into cosmetics and food products from plastic packaging. Xenoestrogens are also present in detergents as surfactants and antioxidants and are used in cleansers, cosmetics, toiletries and foods. For example, BHA (Butylated hydroxytoluene) is used as an antioxidant. Substances belonging to the phthalates group: dibutyl phthalate, di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate, di-isopropyl phthalate and benzyl butyl phthalate. Their danger lies in the fact that they tend to accumulate in the tissues of the human body, and over time the level of their content becomes higher and higher, which can affect the functioning of the endocrine system[16].

Dioxane (1,4-dioxane)[ | ]

This substance is a well-known carcinogen (a substance that causes cancer). 1,4-dioxane was created accidentally as an unwanted byproduct in the production of certain cosmetic ingredients - when two molecules of ethylene oxide combine during a chemical reaction. Before using the ingredient in cosmetics, this chemical compound must be carefully removed by vacuum evaporation. Ethylene oxide is also used in cosmetics as a surfactant, emulsifier and film former. In cosmetics, it can be identified by name: PEG, polyethylene glycol, polyoxyethylene, as well as chemicals ending in “-eth” (for example, the laureth family) or “-oxynol.”[8].

Nitrosamines[ | ]

Nitrosamines, otherwise called N-nitroso compounds, are aggressive carcinogens that can enter the human body through the skin. They are not used as ingredients in cosmetics, like dioxane. They can form accidentally during the preparation of individual ingredients, or through the interaction of two completely safe ingredients in the final product. Even chemicals released from human skin can react with ingredients to form nitrosamines. Some ingredients are known to be nitrosating agents, for example: sodium nitrite, used as a corrosion inhibitor, some hair dyes, preservatives such as 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (BNPD; bronopol) and 5 -bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane (bronidox; C Bronidox)[17]. Therefore, well-known cosmetics manufacturers do not use these ingredients in cosmetics. [ source not specified 3294 days

] However, these substances can be found in cosmetics produced in the post-Soviet space.

Coenzyme Q10 and vitamin C[ | ]

They are actively used in anti-aging cosmetics and are also actively advertised by their manufacturers as effective ingredients in the fight against wrinkles. However, these substances are destroyed quite quickly under the influence of the environment, so very little of them penetrate into the deep layers of the skin.

Who created cosmetics?

Cosmetics have become a part of our lives. It is used by women, men and even children. Have you ever wondered where it came from, who created it, and how long ago it was?

The word “cosmetics” is of Greek origin and is translated from this language as “the art of decorating.” This art was mastered perfectly by Egyptian women who painted their eyes, eyelashes and eyebrows with a thick black liquid, powdered themselves, blushed, did their hair and wore bright clothes. The art of makeup later spread to Ancient Egypt, Greece, Japan, India and China.

In Ancient Rus', women used exclusively natural ingredients to achieve beauty: they rubbed their cheeks with beets, painted their lips with raspberry or cherry juice, and used soot to line their eyes and eyebrows. In order to achieve ideal whiteness of the skin, honey and wheat flour were used. By the way, in the modern cosmetics industry there is a tendency to return to the use of natural ingredients to create cosmetics, and organic cosmetics are proof of this.

Cosmetics in the form in which we are accustomed to seeing them now appeared at the beginning of the 19th century. Thus, in 1911, the owner of the Beiersdorf company, Oskar Troplowitz, developed the first moisturizing cream based on a water-oil emulsion. The first lipstick of a familiar shape owes its appearance to the founder of the Guerlain cosmetics brand, Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain. It was created on the basis of pink wax and was called “Unforgettable” (Nem`oubliezpas). The lipstick with a piston mechanism had several replaceable blocks.

The substance we know today as foundation was created in 1936 by Max Lotz, who later became the founder of the world famous MaxFactor brand. Compact powder, which revolutionized the minds of women, is also his invention. Chemist Eugene Schueller synthesized hair dye, which went on mass sale under the L'Aureale brand. Later, its founder renamed it L`Oreal.

It is noteworthy that all the iconic inventions in the women's cosmetics industry belong to men. The multi-colored nail polishes given to women by the founder of the Revlon brand, Charles Revlon, are no exception. As the backstory of their creation says, Revlon, looking at the ladies sitting at neighboring tables in a restaurant, was horrified to discover that one of them had a different color of nail polish and lipstick. It was then that he came up with the idea of ​​producing lipsticks and polishes of the same color to give women the opportunity to create a beautiful and harmonious look.

15.04.2014

Diseases caused by cosmetics[ | ]

Sensitive skin[ | ]

Many women who think they are allergic to cosmetics are actually suffering from irritation caused by one or a group of chemicals in cosmetics. Research conducted in the EU[18] showed that 42% of women believe that they have sensitive skin. If the skin reacts quickly to the use of cosmetics containing irritating components, then we can say with confidence that it is sensitive skin. Often, symptoms such as itching, red spots, and sometimes a rash (urticaria) quickly disappear if the affected area is washed with water or a soothing lotion. As a rule, skin sensitivity is provoked by fragrances and coloring chemicals, as well as preservatives, sunscreens and many others, both natural and synthetic. Skin sensitivity can also be congenital. Such skin is characterized by a light tone and thin epithelium; a visible and tangible reaction by the body to changes in environmental temperature (redness, tingling), as well as ultraviolet radiation (as a rule, such skin produces a relatively small amount of melanin, as a result of which it quickly turns red in direct sunlight).

Allergy[ | ]

An allergic reaction occurs when the body's immune system reacts with a substance that does not normally cause such reactions in other people. Symptoms of allergies are: itching, formation of tumors on the skin, rash. The occurrence of simple allergic reactions can be avoided if you stop using cosmetics that cause a negative effect. Such drugs can only be identified by consulting a doctor or by performing an allergy skin test[19].

Acne and blackheads (comedones)[ | ]

Blackheads occur when the skin's hair follicles, or oil glands, become blocked by an oily mixture of sebum (the skin's natural oil) and keratin (the rough, fibrous protein that coats the skin, hair, and nails). This mixture hardens and turns into a cork, which turns black when in contact with air. If bacteria get into such plugs and gain the ability to multiply, then blackheads with black heads become infected and red pimples - acne - form. One of the causes of acne is oily or greasy substances that penetrate into the pores of the skin along with cosmetics and clog them.[8]

Egyptian cosmetics

A lot of jars, mortars and cases for cosmetics were found in Egyptian pyramids and mastabas. So, from the remains and traces, scientists were able to recognize their former contents. There are even several scrolls (one by Cleopatra) of papyrus, with a description of all these ointments, rubs, and perfumes.

It’s not a fact that a modern person would use this without a shudder (just as without the risk of losing his health), but we know many of the formulations of that time.

The principle was simple. It smells good and is expensive due to its rarity - suitable as a gift for the gods. Well, what is suitable for the gods is not a sin for ordinary people to use.

Although their simplicity is conditional, it is the lot of the rich, well-fed and powerful. Remember Bible stories? Myrrh, incense and other odorants were part of ancient perfumes, lipsticks and ointments.

But we wouldn't like some of the ingredients. Crocodile excrement, for example. But here we must remember that this toothy lizard was considered a god by the Egyptians. And modern natural amber is not so noble in origin. So don’t judge the ancients harshly - they just saw the world a little differently.

So Egyptian cosmetics are quite understandable. Although there is probably too much musk for modern tastes, it is generally appreciated in the East.

Standards for natural cosmetics[ | ]

On September 1, 2009, the European Communities, with the participation of BDIH (Germany), Bioforum (Belgium), Cosmebio & Ecocert (France), ICEA (Italy) and Soil Association (UK), adopted the Cosmos-standard for natural and organic cosmetics.

Natural and organic cosmetics must contain five types of ingredients: water, natural minerals, plant ingredients obtained by physical and chemical methods, as well as other groups of ingredients.

Manufacturers of cosmetics who declare their products as natural are required to provide the following information: the origin and method of obtaining ingredients, the full composition of cosmetics, storage conditions, production and type and quality of packaging, environmental conditions, various certificates of conformity.

It is prohibited to include nanomaterials in natural and “organic” cosmetics, to use raw materials from genetically modified products, or radioactive substances. It is also prohibited to test cosmetics on animals. However, such testing of ingredients is permitted based on the laws of the country of origin.

To classify an ingredient as “natural” or “organic”, special formulas are used that take into account the following ratios: quality of raw materials, method of obtaining the ingredient and other indicators. As a result, each ingredient is assigned a certain numerical value - points.

In order for a brand's products to be certified as "organic" or "natural", 95% of all natural ingredients used in the composition must be produced using physical methods and no less than 20% of cosmetics from one brand must be certified "organic". The exception is rinse-off cosmetics (for example, cleansers), lotions and powder. At least 10% of this type of cosmetics can be certified as “organic”.

Cosmos-standard also describes in detail the containers in which organic cosmetics can be stored. In particular, it is prohibited to store such cosmetics in plastic containers[20].

A distinctive sign for natural cosmetics and “organic” cosmetics is the labeling of cosmetics with the following designations: “Cosmos-Organic” or “Cosmos-Natural”. In the name of cosmetics, designations such as “organic shampoo”, etc. are not allowed. The correct spelling is: “Shampoo with organic jojoba oil”[21].

The Ecocert standard (France) guarantees that:

• In the production of products, environmentally friendly raw materials are used (obtained without the use of pesticides, chemical fertilizers, growth regulators).
• The production process does not harm the environment.
• The products consist of 95% natural ingredients and do not contain parabens, phenoxyethanol, GMOs (genetically modified organisms), mineral oils, paraffin, petroleum jelly, synthetic fragrances and dyes and other harmful substances.

In Russia there is no clear definition of what constitutes “natural” or “organic” cosmetics. At the moment, there is only one Russian standard for natural cosmetics - Bio.Rus, its rules are less stringent than those of the main international standards[22].

Notes[ | ]

1. Ozhegov S. I.
   Explanatory dictionary of the Russian language / Shvedova N. Yu. - M.: A TEMP, 2008. - 944 p. — ISBN 978-5-990-03586-7.
2. World Exhibition. Paris. 1867. Illustrated description of the World Industrial Exhibition in Paris in 1867 (Russian). www.minfin.ru
   (12/10/2018). — section Documents, Illustrated description, chronicle of the exhibition..
3. Cosmetics Labeling Guide (English). https://www.fda.gov
   (11 May 2017).
4. History (Russian). www.cidesco.ru
   (2018).
5. History of cosmetics (English). https://cosmeticseurope.eu
   . Cosmetics Europe (2020).
6. Anna Kofu.
   Crete / Christiana G. Christopolou. - Athens, Greece: Ekdotike Athenon SA, 2006. - P. 54. - 296 p. — ISBN 960-213-432-1.
7. N. Vinogradova, L. Golan.
   Formula of perfection (Paperback) (Russian). - USA: AND Group, 2006. - ISBN 978-1-4303-0772-3.
8. ↑ 1 2 3 4 Gina Antczak, Stephen Antczak.
   Cosmetics Unmasked: Your Family Guide to Safe Cosmetics and Allergy-Free Toiletries (Paperback) (English). - USA: Thorsons, 2001. - ISBN 978-0-00-710568-7.
9. N. Vinogradova, L. Golan.
   Fundamentals of Phytocosmetology (Russian). - USA: AND Group, 2009. - ISBN 978-1-4116-8065-4.
10. Great Soviet Encyclopedia
11. Cosmetic Ingredient Review (English). www.cir-safety.org. Retrieved December 11, 2020.
12. Rules for certification of perfume and cosmetic products. (as amended by Amendment No. 1, approved by Resolution of the State Standard of the Russian Federation dated June 18, 2002 No. 40)
13. Technical Regulations of the Customs Union 009/2011 “On the safety of perfumery and cosmetic products” (Russian). Archived from the original on December 5, 2012.
14. FDA Authority Over Cosmetics.
15. Cosmetics section on the FDA website (English).
16. David Steinman, Samuel S. Epstein.
    The Safe Shopper's Bible: A Consumer's Guide to Nontoxic Household Products, Cosmetics, and Food (Paperback). - USA: Wiley, 1995. - ISBN 978-0-02-082085-7.
17. Aubrey Hampton.
    What's in Your Cosmetics?: A Complete Consumer's Guide to Natural and Synthetic Ingredients (Paperback) (English). - Odonian Prlocation=USA, 1995. - ISBN 978-1-878825-45-2.
18. In November 2006, the EU adopted a resolution on the creation of a special “Cosmetovigilance” system. It was proposed to create an independent database on the negative impact of cosmetic products on human health.
19. Pamela Hill.
    Milady's Aesthetician Series: Common Skin Diseases: A Handbook for the Aesthetician (Paperback) (English). - USA: Milady, 2007. - ISBN 978-1-4018-8170-2.
20. Myths and reality of natural cosmetics (Russian) // Raw materials and packaging for perfumery, cosmetics and household chemicals: magazine. — 2014. — July–August (No. 06 (156)).
21. COSMOS-standard (English). Archived from the original on December 5, 2012.
22. Puchkova Tatyana.
    Bio.Rus.
    Our Certification System (Russian). www.1nep.ru
    (09.11.2012).