Hard childhood
There is very little information about Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel's early years. It is known that the girl was born on August 19, 1883 in the French province of Saumur. Her father, Albert Chanel, was a street vendor, her mother, Eugenia Zhanna Devol, worked as a laundress at the Sisters of Mercy charity hospital. The parents got married some time after the birth of their daughter.
When Gabrielle turned 12, her mother died of bronchitis. The father, who was never interested in the girl, sent her to a monastery in Obazine, where she lived until she came of age.
The legendary Mademoiselle Chanel tried to hide the story of her childhood for a long time. She did not want reporters to find out the truth about her illegitimate origin and the betrayal of her own father.
Coco even came up with a legend about a happy, carefree childhood in a “clean, bright house” with two aunts, where her father left her before leaving for America.
Career and love
“If you were born without wings, then at least don’t stop them from growing.”
The six years spent within the monastery walls will still be reflected in world fashion. In the meantime, very young Gabrielle goes to the city of Moulins, where she gets a job as a seamstress in an atelier. Sometimes a girl sings on the stage of a cabaret, which is a popular resting place for cavalry officers. It is here, after singing the song “Qui Qua Vu Coco”, that young Gabrielle receives her famous nickname “Coco” - and meets her first love.
The acquaintance with the wealthy officer Etienne Balsan occurs in 1905 during a performance. Having no experience in relationships with men, very young Gabrielle surrenders to her feelings, leaves her job and moves to live in the luxurious mansion of her lover. Thus begins her glamorous life.
Coco is interested in making hats, but does not find support from Etienne.
In the spring of 1908, Gabriel meets Captain Balsan's friend, Arthur Caple. From the first minutes, the heart of a young man is conquered by an obstinate and intelligent woman. He offers to open a hat shop in Paris and guarantees financial support.
A little later he will become her partner in business and personal life.
The end of 1910 put an end to the story with Etienne. Coco moves to the apartment of her ex-lover in the capital. This address is well known to many of the captain’s friends, and it is they who become Mademoiselle Chanel’s first customers.
On the way to glory
"If you want something you've never had, you'll have to do something you've never done."
In Paris, Gabrielle begins an affair with Arthur Caple. Having secured his support, Coco opens the first hat shop on Rue Cambon, located opposite the building of the famous Ritz Hotel.
By the way, it remains there to this day.
In 1913, the popularity of the young fashion designer was gaining momentum. She opens a boutique in Deauville. Regular customers appear, but Gabriel sets himself a new goal - to develop a line of his own clothing. She has a lot of crazy ideas in her head, but without a dressmaker's license, she can't make "real" women's dresses. Illegal competition faces serious penalties.
The solution comes unexpectedly. Coco begins to sew clothes from knitted fabric, which is used in the production of men's underwear. Chanel does not try to create new details, she removes unnecessary ones.
Her way of working evokes numerous smiles: Coco never sketches on paper, but immediately gets to work - throwing fabric onto a mannequin, and using simple tools, transforms a shapeless piece of material into an elegant silhouette.
In 1914, the First World War begins. France is in chaos, but Coco continues to work hard. More and more new ideas are born in her head: low waist, trousers and shirts for women appear.
Chanel's fame is increasingly gaining momentum. A sonorous name becomes known in wide circles. Her style - simple and practical - appeals to women tired of corsets and long skirts. Each new model is perceived as a real discovery.
In 1919, in a car accident, Coco loses her closest and most beloved person, Arthur Caple. Chanel is left alone again.
Coco Chanel's rules of life
I like to joke. I do this to talk less about myself. Because I'm not such an important person. Some couturiers are very good, but they change their approach to clothing once a week. That's why I once created my one and only style. It wouldn't exist if I had to come up with something new every week. The race for novelty usually leads to degeneration - you start creating something completely ugly.
Fashion has become a joke. The designers forgot that there are real women inside their dresses. Most women dress for men and want to be admired. But they need to somehow move without the risk of the seams coming apart! Therefore, clothes should be comfortable.
Women's fashion has always been created in France, always. And the main buyers were Russians. All noble Russians dressed in Paris when they could afford it, and spent considerable money on it. Now they are dressed in bags, but even this is much better than it was a year ago. One of my Russian friends went to her homeland and told me how sad things were there last year. Russia has become a poor country, just like all other poor countries. Just poor, that's all. I don't think France stands out much from its background.
Don't you think that television brainwashes people and makes them stupid? I doubt you think so. But even I can’t live without all these programs - no matter whether they are good or not. When I'm home alone, the TV is always on.
For the last few years I have been fighting with couturiers who make these terrible short dresses. In my opinion, this is simply indecent. It's not the right time, you know? To show off your knees, you need them to look perfect. It's a joint, it's like showing off your elbows... I have nothing against knees if they're nice. But spend a day on Rue Cambon and you're unlikely to meet many people with beautiful legs. I think when a person exposes himself too much and shows off himself, it means he doesn’t need anything else. It's like feeding someone to their fill and then offering them their favorite dish. He will refuse the delicacy. This is what it looks like. We know very well that we will never fly to the moon. And why fly? Why do we want to be superhuman so much? No one has been to the moon before, so why are the French so desperate to get there? Or Russian? Or someone else? I'm really not interested in this at all. This whole story is needed to amuse the masses. You don't see the rot that lies behind the show. All this is for the sake of money, solely for the sake of money. We live in a time when scientists speak directly to the ignorant. And so you listen to these conversations, like a catechism, not believing a single word. I definitely don't believe this.
The idea of dressing women in trousers came from modesty. In my opinion, walking along the beach in a swimsuit is the same as walking naked. What to do if you have taken a swim and want to stay on the beach some more? The easiest way is to wear trousers. A skirt will look bad, a dress too, but trousers are the best option. You can lie on the sand all day. But since trousers came into fashion, 70% of women wear them to social dinners, and this is quite sad. The worst thing in the world is stupidity. Everything can be forgiven, except stupidity. Nothing ages a woman more than trying to look younger than her age. I would be happy to gain a few kilos, but I can’t, no matter what I do. I may eat, I may not eat, it doesn’t matter. I never gain weight, I'm not made for this. I was created to lose weight. I drink champagne on two occasions - when I'm in love and when I'm not.
Fashion has two purposes: comfort and love. Beauty occurs when fashion succeeds in both.
I don't create fashion, I am fashion.
You can be stunning at 30, charming at 40 and irresistible for the rest of your days. Dress poorly and they will remember your outfit. Dress impeccably and they will remember you. Some people think that luxury is the exact opposite of poverty. This is wrong. Luxury is the exact opposite of vulgarity. Always dress as if you are about to meet your worst enemy.
Don't waste time banging on the wall in the hope that it will turn into a door.
If you are the object of someone's passion, feel free to jump out of the window. Run as soon as you feel it.
The passion goes away, only melancholy remains.
Chanel No. 5
“Perfume is an invisible, but unforgettable, unrivaled fashion accessory. It notifies you of a woman’s arrival and continues to remind you of her when she’s gone.”
In 1920, Gabriel opened a fashion house in Biarritz.
A little later, Coco meets with a Russian emigrant, the young and very handsome Prince Dmitry Pavlovich Romanov. Their turbulent relationship will not last long, but will prove to be very fruitful. Soon the fashion designer will present to the world a whole series of costumes in the Russian style.
During a car tour of France, the Russian prince introduces Coco to his perfumer acquaintance Ernest Beaux. This meeting turns out to be a real success for both. A year of experimentation and hard work brings a new flavor to the world.
Ernest prepared 10 samples and invited Coco. She chose sample number 5, explaining that this number brings her good luck. It was the first synthetic perfume created from 80 components.
To design a new fragrance, choose a crystal bottle with a simple rectangular label. Previously, manufacturers used bottles of more complex shapes, but this time they decided to focus not on the container, but on the content. As a result, the world received “a perfume for women that smelled like a woman.”
Chanel No. 5 remains the most popular fragrance to this day!
When work on the perfume is completed, Coco is in no hurry to release it for sale. At first, she will give one bottle to her friends and acquaintances. The fame of the wonderful aroma spreads at the speed of light. Therefore, when perfumes appear on the counter, they are already quite popular. The most beautiful women in the world choose this fragrance.
At the beginning of 1950, the famous Marilyn Monroe told reporters that at night she left nothing on her body except a few drops of Chanel No. 5. Naturally, such a statement increased sales significantly.
Maybe,
On Coco Chanel's birthday: rules of style and invention
Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, known around the world by her iconic nickname Coco, has been involved with fashion since childhood.
The founder of the famous French brand did not belong to high society, but she was able not only to change the attitude towards women's clothing, but also to make a real revolution, completely rewriting the legalized rules. Today we recall the tips and rules of style of the French fashion designer, and also talk about her iconic inventions, relevant, regardless of time. “It’s easy to dress as Scheherazade, but it’s difficult to choose a little black dress. ”
After the death of Arthur Capel, Chanel was unable to mourn for her lover, since she was not officially married. But she decided to bring black color into fashion, creating a basic item that is accessible and suitable for every woman in any situation. This is how the legendary little black dress appeared - an example of laconicism, elegance, modesty and sexuality.
“Lace is the most beautiful imitation of nature’s fantasy. And pearls are always right »
In the 20s, Chanel wore jewelry not only with festive outfits, but also with everyday clothes, which in turn shocked and outraged the public. Pearls became another symbol of the French fashion house; Coco found people who made products from glass beads, covering them with mother-of-pearl paint, which made them look like real pearls. Gabrielle believed that artificial jewelry should be worn on the street, and natural jewelry should only be tried on at home to receive true pleasure.
“Perfume is an invisible, but unforgettable, unsurpassed fashion accessory. It notifies you when a woman appears and continues to remind you of her when she is gone. »
In 1920, Chanel decided to create her own, unique fragrance. She explained the desire by saying that she needed a whole composition of smells, and not fresh, floral and sweet aromas. The author of the famous scent was Ernest Bo, a Russian in exile and a second-generation perfumer. In 1921, Bo offered several examples of perfume to choose from, and Coco chose bottle number five and gave it her last name as the name.
“The bag should have a strap to keep your hands free.”
Chanel always strived to simplify fashion, and also said that luxury is a sign of vulgarity and lack of a sense of taste. In 1929, she created the iconic Chanel 2.55 Bag, made of genuine leather and with a gold-plated chain that allows it to be worn on the shoulder. Inspiration came from quilted soldiers' bales from the First World War, as well as stories from her past, which Coco spent in a convent in Aubazine. The burgundy lining is a reference to monastic robes, and the chain is a reference to the details at the waist where the sisters held their keys.
“Nothing ages a woman more than an overly luxurious suit.”»
Chanel introduced the first tweed suit with a jacket and skirt in 1925. At that time, tweed was considered a rough fabric and was used for men's clothing. But Coco loved to borrow things from the wardrobe of her lovers; for her it was a kind of performance; she boldly declared herself and presented the world with a completely different, new fashion. But journalists received the new collection coldly and even with some disgust. The suit received its rebirth in 1954, it was then that fashionistas appreciated the simplicity of the cut, the convenience of the style, and most importantly, the elegance and indispensability of the suit in every girl’s wardrobe.
Fantasy jewelry
“People with good taste wear jewelry. Everyone else has to wear gold."
Thanks to Coco Chanel, women from different circles were able to dress beautifully and elegantly. But one problem remains - precious jewelry is available only to ladies from high circles. In 1921, Gabriel began to become interested in jewelry design. Her simple but colorful accessories are gaining incredible popularity. Coco often wears jewelry herself. As always, showing by example that you can create the perfect look even with artificial stones. She calls these pieces “fancy jewelry.”
In the same year, the designer presented Chanel jewelry in the Art Deco style to the general public. Bright jewelry is becoming a real trend.
All fashionistas are closely watching Mademoiselle Coco, afraid of missing out on the next new product. When Gabrielle attached a small brooch to her waistcoat in 1929, the most stylish French women followed suit.
Little black dress
“A well-cut dress suits any woman. Dot!"
In the early 20s, the struggle for gender inequality in the world was almost over. Women received the legal right to work and vote in elections. At the same time, they began to lose their face.
There have been changes in fashion that have affected women's sexuality. Coco takes advantage of this moment and begins to combine unusual details with a modern mood. In 1926, the “little black dress” came into the world.
It is distinguished by its lack of frills. No fringe, buttons, or frills, just a semi-circular neckline and long narrow sleeves. Every woman can afford to have such a dress in her wardrobe. This versatile outfit is suitable for any event - you just need to complement it with small accessories.
The black dress brings 44-year-old Coco even more popularity. Critics recognize it as an example of elegance, luxury and style. They begin to copy it, change it .
New interpretations of this outfit are still popular today.
Five “fashion” memories of Coco Chanel
Alexandra
1001 (892)
On Coco Chanel's birthday, let's remember the five best creations of the legendary designer. And if you are wondering why the cult legacy of the great Coco has been reduced to such a minimum, then the answer will surprise you even more - it’s just that the number “5” was the couturier’s favorite!
Shall we begin?
1. Chanel No. 5
You've probably already guessed why the most famous fragrance received this serial number? But his story is even more interesting! It turns out that when perfumer Ernest Beaux showed Gabrielle Chanel several perfume compositions, the designer definitely chose the fifth one (taking into account the fact mentioned above) and admitted that she didn’t even like them.
But Coco believed madly in luck and knew that number five would not let her down! By the way, the couturier always held all her shows on the fifth, including the first post-war one, which might not have taken place at all.
2. Little black dress
The story of its creation, as always, is simple and ingenious - Coco was oppressed by the need to change clothes every time for lunch, and returning from lunch to put on her work suit again.
More than 90 years since its release in 1926, the LBD - the little black dress has not lost its relevance, and millions of women around the world wear it every day to business meetings, parties and even dates!
3. Handbag “2.55”
The slogan of the creation is “Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury!”
The history of the handbag, which has been the subject of women's dreams for exactly 60 years, deserves a separate story. But I’m sure that mysterious numbers haunt you...
So: “2” is the month of February, when the handbag was released, and “55” is the year of its release.
4. Tweed suit
The creation of a tweed suit was Dior’s response to his style of dressing, or rather, dressing women.
The suit from Coco (she created it at the age of 70!) became a real breakthrough in the history of fashion, and all women in the world loved this comfortable alternative of a fitted jacket and tight skirt for the opportunity to combine practicality and elegance.
The Chanel tweed suit was an integral part of the wardrobe of Jacqueline Kennedy, Grace Kelly, Princess Diana and Nancy Reagan.
5. Two-tone shoes
Another brilliant creation of Gabrielle Chanel, allowing a woman to always feel sophisticated and attractive, and...
and thanks to the combination of two colors, the leg visually lengthened and the foot became smaller.
Coco taught me to combine white patent leather shoes with black toes with both dresses and trousers!
Agree, Coco Chanel managed to make more than one revolution in the world of fashion and change the course of its history, while she always asserted: “Fashion is what goes out of fashion!”
Relationship with Hugh Grosvenor
“There is a time to work, and there is a time to love. There is no other time."
The Duke of Westminster came into Coco's life in 1924. This novel brought Chanel into the world of the British aristocracy. The Duke's friends included many politicians and celebrities.
At one of the receptions, Chanel meets Winston Churchill, who holds the post of Minister of Finance. The man does not hide his delight, calling Coco “the smartest and strongest woman.”
Several years of romance do not end with family ties. The Duke dreams of an heir, but Coco was already 46 years old at this point. Breaking up becomes the right decision for both.
Gabriel returns to work with new ideas. All projects are accompanied by success. This time is called the zenith of Chanel's fame.
Ten-year pause in career
"I do not care what you think of me. I do not think about you at all".
The Second World War. Coco closes stores and leaves for Paris.
In September 1944, she was arrested by the Committee on Public Morals. The reason for this is Gabrielle's love affair with Baron Hans Gunther von Dinklage.
At Churchill's request, she is released, but on one condition - she must leave France.
Chanel has no choice but to pack her bags and head to Switzerland. There she spends about ten years.
Personal life and scandal
Another significant romance for Coco began in 1923. Chanel met the wealthy Duke of Westminster, with whom the relationship continued until World War II. The Duke even proposed to Gabrielle, to which the proud Frenchwoman replied: “There may be several Duchesses of Westminster, but there is only one Chanel!”
Chanel had to close her fashion house and stores due to the occupation of France and the outbreak of World War II. At that time, Chanel had a close relationship with the German military official Hans Gunther von Dinklage. After the war, she was accused of spying for Germany, but soon the suspicion of collaboration was removed from her. It is believed that she managed to avoid the sad fate of a foreign agent only thanks to the guarantee of her longtime friend Winston Churchill.
Coco suffered from public condemnation, because many still considered her affair with a German to be a betrayal. Chanel left Paris and lived in Switzerland for several years.
