Time to invigorate your image with bold elements of punk, rock and grunge. It was in these youth styles that almost every second creator of fashion trends for the fall-winter 2019-2020 season found inspiration.
With its rebellious spirit and brutal images, punk aesthetics paved its way to the pedestal of 2019-2020 trends. Both in the world of fashionable clothing and in the segment of accompanying jewelry and accessories. In designer interpretations, the punk style is not associated with something marginal and does not declare membership in a particular subculture. Today's glamorous punk or punk chic fits seamlessly into modern street fashion and allows you to show your individuality.
The fact that “Punk's not dead” is clearly communicated to us by leather raincoats, vests and leather jackets, heavy boots, and brightly lined eyes. Brutal chokers, chains, metal collars, crazy combinations of spikes and leather, numerous piercings, and gloves with rivets send greetings from the 70s.
To be on trend, let’s remember the “queen” of punk fashion Vivienne Westwood and the scandalous Sex Pistols. And we try on unceremonious, daring images: a punk, a glamorous rocker or a gothic princess - as you like. All this is in fashion today. We’ll tell you further what trendy jewelry to complete this image.
“Chaining” ourselves in chains
Oversized chains seem to be created for autumn and winter. They go well with voluminous, textured sweaters and leather clothes. And with the spirit of rock and punk. It's not just neck chains that are trending. They are actively adjacent to other jewelry made of large metal links, for example, chain bracelets and earrings.
Choose the most immodest sizes and remember about fashionable layering - chains can be safely mixed with each other and with other jewelry.
Warnings
- Get into the music first.
- In the beginning, you may look like a poser, but then you can create a unique image that will shock everyone around you.
- You shouldn't brag about being a punk, especially when it comes to your clothes.
The new punk culture became so popular and comprehensive that even the Italian edition of Vogue devoted several pages to the punk fashion movement in 1976.
"Punk Princess" of the 70s Zandra Rhodes created a unique collection of punk outfits called "Conceptual Chic" in 1977. The models wore chic satin dresses with artistic holes in the most unexpected places, pinned with safety pins.
In the 80s, after breaking up with McLaren and the collapse of the Sex Pistols, Vivienne Westwood continued to work alone, but in a punk theme. Her first independent work was a collection in a historical style with a touch of punk aesthetics. Models strutted down the runway wearing burlap hats. The models' tangled and dirty hair gave a special flavor to the collection.
Today, along with Madame Westwood, other fashion houses and designers are creating punk style - Jean Paul Gaultier
,
Alexander McQueen
and others.
Punk style in fashion trends 2013-2014
Fashion collections for the fall-winter 2013-2014 season are imbued with the spirit of rebellion and freedom. And even those brands that promoted chic and elegance decided to experiment with punk aesthetics.
"anarchy", "riot" and "garbage"
Punks replaced hippies. And if they proclaimed the slogan “Love and Peace,” the punks preferred completely different slogans—“Sex and Violence.” The word punk itself means “bad”, “trashy”, “scum”.
The emergence of punks, like many youth subcultures, is directly related to new trends in music. At the origins of punk were two musical groups - the Ramones and the Sex Pistols (deliberately primitive sound, vulgar behavior on stage, “diving” into the crowd of spectators). These groups were the first to play punk rock music.
Great Britain is considered the birthplace of punk culture. In the early 1970s, it was in Great Britain that the scandalous group “Sex Pistols” appeared. Her manager was none other than Malcom McLaren. By the way, he is the author of the name of the group.
In 1971, Malcolm McLaren and they jointly opened a fashion boutique in London. The store was originally called "Let it Rock" and then more scandalously "Sex". It was Vivienne Westwood, who did not have the slightest sewing education, who came up with all the basic elements of punk clothing and style.
Vivienne Westwood is the author of torn trousers, a mohawk hairstyle (she herself began to wear a crew cut made of bleached hair) and T-shirts with provocative inscriptions and prints. The inscriptions for the T-shirts were designed by Malcolm McLaren. Among the inscriptions on T-shirts sold in the McLaren and Westwood store were such inscriptions as: “I am not a terrorist, do not arrest me”, “Be reasonable - demand the impossible!”, “Empty generation”, “We are not afraid of ruins!”
In Vivienne Westwood's store you could buy a lot of different clothes and accessories, including outfits and accessories with rivets and spikes, various leather jackets, torn tights, and, of course, those same safety pins that were used to fasten torn pieces of clothing.
The punk style, which initially existed exclusively as anti-fashion, was already recognized by the fashion world in the second half of the 1970s, as is usually the case - in 1976, materials about fashion collections in the punk style appeared on the pages of Italian Vogue.
Punk also has connections with the American “beat generation” of the 1940s and 50s, at least through the American singer and poet Patti Smith, who is called the “godmother of punk rock.” Initially, in her work, she relied on books by writers of the “beat generation”.
Punk ideology
Punks are a fairly diverse subculture, within which there are many movements. At the same time, the views of punks themselves can also vary. Thus, in terms of their political beliefs, representatives of punk culture can be very different. What they have in common is the desire for personal freedom and complete independence, non-conformism, the principles of “not selling out”, “relying on yourself”. Punks often adhere to nihilism, anarchism, socialism, anti-authoritarianism, and anti-capitalism.
Here are some of the punk trends:
Anarcho-punk
(arises in Great Britain, as the name suggests - the main desire for anarchism, and accordingly the attributes in clothing, for example, the use of anarchist symbols)
Folk-punk
(often hold left-wing political views)
Glam punk
(the main emphasis is on creating fashionable looks in punk style, hairstyles and makeup)
Hardcore punk
(working class clothing, sportswear (for example, Adidas), short hair (sometimes dreadlocks), biker jackets, motorcycle boots, cartridge belts)
Horror punk
(black clothes, corpse stains, skeletons, ideological basis - horror films and science fiction)
Pop punk
(theme of relationships, politics, toilet humor, clothes - leather jackets, Chuck Taylor All-Stars, baseball caps, ties)
Surf punk
(considering the environment, wearing short shorts and skate shoes).
We put on daring chokers
Time to take a break from the tender relationship with pearls and floral shapes. Black leather, metal, sharp spikes are elements of the most daring fashionable chokers proposed by designers for this season. There is definitely something here for connoisseurs of brutal paraphernalia and eye-catching jewelry.
If such aggressive studded looks are too much for you, opt for metal hoop chokers, chain chokers or smaller leather chokers that can be worn even over the collar of a warm jumper. All of them will fit into the image, just like the next hero of the autumn-winter trends 2019-2020.
1980s (Punk subgenres)
Henry Rollins (pictured) and other musicians in the American hardcore scene favored casual clothing.
In the 1980s, new subgenres of punk emerged in Britain and the United States, many of which formed their own fashions. Subsequently, music experts recognized that classic punk images became a reflection of the fashion of this particular period - when such trends as Oi! and street punk, as well as UK82. At the same time, hardcore punk was formed in the USA, which was represented by groups such as Black Flag, Minor Threat and Fear, who became the founders of utilitarian anti-fashion - simpler, everyday clothes. However, despite the evolution of the genre, some elements characteristic of 1970s punk remained in the later fashion of this subculture.
Although punks had similar clothing items in both America and Europe, some geographic areas differed in specific style elements. Among the most common punk shoes in the 1980s were boots from Dr. Martens, motorcycle boots and combat boots; sometimes the shoes were decorated with bandanas, chains or studded strips of leather. Outerwear options included jeans (often dirty, torn or stained with bleach), tartan kilts and leather skirts, which became a popular item of clothing among punk women. Sometimes thick chains were used as belts. Belts decorated with sleeves and spikes also became common (sometimes several were worn at the same time).
Some punks used markers to write various political slogans, band names and phrases associated with this musical movement on their T-shirts. Although similar things existed in the 1970s, it was in the next decade that they acquired their complete, canonical form. Also, T-shirts with factory prints containing images or slogans associated with punk were popular in the subculture. In addition, various variations of leather jackets and denim vests became widespread this decade, which caused a decline in the popularity of blazers. Changes in style also affected punk hairstyles: shaved hair (Oi style!), “hedgehog” (English) Russian, as well as spiked and classic mohawks, which became a symbol of the subculture, became widespread. High mohawks and spiked hairstyles, with brightly colored hair, took on a more extreme character than in the 1970s. Hairstyles with hair raised “on end” and not distributed into separate spikes also appeared. In addition, the “devilock” style hairstyle has become popular among horror punk bands. group The Misfits, when they left only a long tuft of hair on the front of the head. In the 1980s, piercings and tattoos of various themes, but most often large in volume, became widespread. Also, during this period, another classic punk element appeared - the studded choker. In turn, some women protested the glamorous trend of the late 70s by creating more androgynous images.
A punk in a vest and arafat is, in fact, close to the canonical image of a punk rocker in pop culture
Hardcore punk performers developed their own personal image, which included T-shirts, jeans, combat boots or sneakers, and a crew cut. Among women of this trend, army pants, T-shirts and jumpers with a hood were common[7]. The style of the 1980s hardcore scene contrasted with the more provocative fashion of the punk rockers of the late 1970s (complicated hairstyles, ripped clothes, pins, stilettos, spikes, etc.). Circle Jerks lead singer Keith Morris described early hardcore fashion this way: “...most of the punk scene was based on British fashion, but we had nothing to do with that. Black Flag and The Circle Jerks were very far from this. We looked like guys who worked at a gas station or a diner."[8] Black Flag frontman Henry Rollins expressed a similar opinion, noting that the concert outfit is “a black T-shirt and some dark pants”; According to Rollins, the fashion aspect of music was an optional abstraction[9]. In turn, Jimmy Gestapo from the group Murphy's Law (English) Russian. explained the motivation for changing his punk look (spiked hairstyle and bondage belt) to a hardcore one (shaved head and combat boots) for practical reasons, since such clothes were more functional and comfortable[7]. According to some music experts, "hardcore fans are not like punks," as hardcore fans wore casual clothes and short haircuts, as opposed to the "exotic leather jackets and pants" that were popular among punks.[10]
However, some music historians have described hardcore fashion in a different light; according to Lorraine LeBlanc, the subculture's standard clothing includes ripped jeans, leather jackets, studded wristbands and collars, as well as mohawks and various patches with band names and political slogans. [eleven]. Another music expert claims that the original appearance of members of the San Francisco hardcore scene consisted of: leather biker jackets, chains, spiked bracelets, piercings, as well as tattoos with various punk symbols (for example, anarchy) and hedgehog hairstyles. and mohawk[12].
Armed to the ears
Ear piercing has long been not limited to the classic piercing of the lobe. If you have several of these and at least a couple more piercings in the tragus and helix, you can easily try on another current trend - multi-layer piercing. All that remains is to choose the right decorations.
Piercing rings, from small to large, labrets with spikes and pendants, industrial barbells - combine different types, shapes and sizes. The main thing is to have a lot of decorations.
Separately, it is worth mentioning the cuffs. With their help, it’s easy to increase the number of rock accents in your 2019-2020 fall-winter looks or complement your collection of gothic jewelry. Large metal cuffs covering the entire ear are trending. A significant plus for those who are hesitant about new types of piercings is that many of the fashionable cuffs do not require a piercing.
Safety pins in large quantities
Previously, we talked about fashionable brooches 2019-2020, and in addition to the mass of feminine models, among them there are versions to match the loud uprising of punk and grunge. These are brooches-pins, analogues of the rocker paraphernalia that was worn back in the 70s. Remember the images of the same members of the Sex Pistols. Or young Joan Jett, the first performer of the cult rock track “I Love Rock'n'Roll.” Brooches-pins today are complemented by chains and pendants, and you can pin them anywhere, the main thing is in large quantities.
Other pin-shaped jewelry is accent earrings, which made it onto trend lists back in 2016. An excellent alternative to other types of massive earrings. This is what they think at Versace and Prada, for example. And the author of the most daring idea of using a pin in the 2019-2020 season was the creator of an entire army of punk images - Alexander McQueen.
Punk style in clothes
text: Ksenia Komkova photo: Olesya Kulida RIP No. 3 (October/November 2005)
There was a time when in Russia the word “punk” was associated more with the mohawk hairstyle. Then the townsfolk, seeing a young man on the street with such a “house on his head”, dressed in studded pins, said: “Look, what a punk he is!” Fifteen years have passed since then, or even more. Now the Russian people have become more educated. In our country they realize that punk is a musical movement. That this is a protest against bourgeois morality. Or that, at worst, this person is not properly washed and combed. We take the floor to refute such ideas.
It all started in London in 1975, when Malcolm McLaren, returning from a trip to America, decided to rename his youth clothing store in connection with new trends. Thus, the already traditional English “Let it Rock” turned into the provocative “Sex” for that time. The small boutique on the King's Road in Chelsea sold items that were intended to become iconic among London's marginalized youth - leather jackets, metal chains and rubber dildos. McLaren was joined by his longtime friend Vivienne Westwood, who had no special tailoring education, but had long wanted to fool around. Together they came up with inscriptions for shirts and T-shirts - from aphoristic ones (“Be reasonable - demand the impossible!”) to those destined to be slogans of the punk movement as a whole (“Empty Generation”).
The enterprising McLaren, who understood that clothes alone would not get anarchist-minded youth far, decided to organize a punk band. And then the Sex Pistols . They could play musical instruments as well as Vivienne Westwood could sew, but this did not stop any of them from becoming idols of a new generation, which was not interested in the “rich and famous” Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd and Deep Purple .
In clothing, the “punk” style was originally formed as “anti-fashion,” that is, something that expresses a protest against the rules and norms established by society. Leather jackets with metal spikes, hundreds of pins, provocative miniskirts, fishnet tights, bright makeup and mohawk hairstyles - all this should have shocked the prim British. The fashion of the 70s was unbearably boring: the days of space experiments and geometric shapes were over, bourgeois elegance reigned on the catwalks. Punks blew up the fashion world with their anti-aesthetic ideas and thus anticipated the trends of the 80s - the period of General Vulgarity. The combination of incompatibles and sexual aggressiveness became the main principles of the punk style. In the advertisement for the opening of the Sex boutique, boys and girls flaunted previously hidden parts of their bodies, Vivienne Westwood, corked to the ears, stood modestly on the side, and Malcolm McLaren smiled slyly over it all.
As an asocial, nihilistic movement, punk did not last long, from an economic point of view it turned into a profitable enterprise for record companies, and from a cultural point of view, it became part of the System that the punks themselves once opposed. In the System they took the then vacant position of aggressive rebels.
The glory days of the Sex Pistols had passed within a few years, and Vivienne Westwood, having left McLaren, presented her first own collection, “Pirates,” in 1981. Adam Ant, one of the leaders of the New Romantics movement, who opposed themselves to ill-mannered punks, sported a camisole from this collection on stage. Slowly but surely, Westwood's interests are shifting towards historical costume, although not without an admixture of punk aesthetics. Her collections from the 80s and 90s can be compared to the robes of incruaibles during the French Revolution, when aristocrats combined all sorts of colors and textures and wore knotty canes, and ladies cut the hair at the back of their heads and threw red shawls over their shoulders in memory of Charlotte Corday. Westwood weaved punk and history together, dressing the young ladies in full skirts, army jackets and high platform shoes, which Naomi Campbell once could not resist.
England needed an official master of fashion, like Yves Saint Laurent was in France. Westwood has actually become one of the most important people at receptions at Buckingham Palace: it is considered good form for English ladies to wear her dresses. The “uncrowned queen” herself comes to tea with Elizabeth II, whom God still must save and who was portrayed in time immemorial with the light hand of Westwood with a pin in her nostril. Vivienne Westwood arrives at the palace, albeit without underwear, which she immediately informs the assembled journalists about. But now it looks like just a whim of a rich Englishwoman. Just like her habit of commuting to work exclusively by bicycle.
Let's go back to our pins. By the way, they were not indispensable attributes of punks. The “stars” dressed up in whatever way they wanted - fortunately, the punk aesthetics allowed this. Debbie Harry, the lead singer of the group Blondie , who adored the color black in her youth, changed her preferences by the beginning of her musical career. The main concept of her style was irony - bright leggings, short dresses and constant teasing about her fate as a “blonde”. Debbie was friends with the most famous New York fashion designers and led that bourgeois lifestyle. Nina Hagen put on doll cocktail dresses and painted her sexy face with all her might, and later became friends with the last mastodon of French haute couture, Jean Paul Gaultier. Gaultier also dressed another famous diva, who in her youth, which few people know, dabbled in punk rock - Madonna. For her (when the diva had already shifted towards pop music), the famous cone-shaped bustier was specially invented, created, as legend has it, in the image and likeness of Frida Kahlo’s medical corset. How is this not punk or kitsch - both sex and bad taste! Unlike all the above-mentioned young ladies, another punk rock princess, Patti Smith, was completely asexual, at times turning into a lonely Ophelia, then into a strict androgyne.
Uncertainty and shapelessness characterize punk as a style of clothing today. That is, when the pins are, of course, punk. And when you have a Mohawk hairstyle, too. From the point of view of style, the same Gwen Stefani is also considered post-punk, but she has very little to do with anticulture. Punks have become a London landmark. The guide there can now say: “You see Tower Bridge. And this,” in a whisper, “look, do you know who this is? London punks." Fashion magazines write that the collections of many - and not just any Belgian or Japanese, but the most French and Italian - designers were created under the influence of the “punk” style. Prices for previously anti-bourgeois items are rising at an exponential rate.
Shockingness - one of the foundations of punk - is now difficult to achieve. Few manage to surprise the average person and provoke his indignation. There are fewer and fewer ways to do this. There remain only such radical ones as using a swastika in a costume (hello Siouxsie & the Banshees !) or exposing “indecent” body parts. But then you need to monitor your surroundings so that - God forbid! - don't end up behind bars. On the other hand, girls may, for example, not shave their legs, and boys may lose their attractive smile, following the example of Johnny Rotten. And this is the only way to feel like a real punk. Really, will the game be worth the candle?
Cowardly and indecisive individuals can only choose for themselves a few items from the list of ten things of a real punk: 1) Leather jacket with rivets;
2) Black fishnet tights; 3) Massive army boots; 4) A fluffy white or pink skirt; 5) Black eyeliner; 6) Set of pins and badges; 7) Hairspray; Pokemon vest;
9) Multi-colored pants; 10) And finally, a silver “princess” tiara. And then at least punk style clothes will never be dead!
Belts and fetish fashion elements
Wide leather belts, massive buckles, models made of chains or the now fashionable combination of two belts at one waist are also on the list of trends. And matching accessories for a mix of rock and glamour. The current way to wear it is with a long leather belt tied in a knot. And those who want to shock others are finally and irrevocably invited to pay attention to such designer delights as corsets, masks and sword belts.
